Buenos Aires Day 1

Our flight arrived on time and it only took us about an hour to clear immigration and customs.  Our shuttle was waiting for us and it was about 45 min to the apartment.  The apartment is a bachelor suite with a small deck, full kitchen, not that we are using it for anything other than keeping the beer and water cold.  Nice wine glasses though.  We are staying in Palermo neighbourhood in a fully secure complex.  Everything we need is within walking distance, however its been a national holiday for carnival for the past 3 days so nothing opens until after 5pm.  Exchanging money has been a challenge because the money exchangers are all closed.  A local lady at the airport told us we would get a better rate (blue rate) from the locals as they are restricted as to how much US cash they can have through the bank.  Therefore the black market is alive and well.  However the US cash has to be in perfect condition or they won't take it.  The best rate we have gotten so far is 7 to 1.  The bank is offering 5 to 1.  So the challenge is on to find a place that will give us 7-1 close to the apartment.

Sunday night we had a spectacular thunder storm and it poured rain for about 4 hours.  We ventured out at about 8pm to see if we could find a place to eat.  Not much was open yet so we walked around the neighbourhood to acquaint ourselves with the area.  Within a few blocks Bill was completely lost, but we eventually found a small place and ducked in out of the rain. (good thing we had our rain gear this trip).  Ordering dinner was a challenge as the menu was in Spanish only.  I managed to remember the few words Serena had taught me and some are very similar to English so my dish was close to what I thought is was, Salmon with caramelised onions and mushrooms.  Malbec is a pretty standard order so no problem there.  Bill thought he ordered pasta with salmon but ended up with a wonderful salad with smoked salmon on top.   He even liked the wine and it did not give him heartburn!  It quit raining by the time we left and my husband was quite surprised I was able to find our way home.  He would have have made it half way and was convinced I was crazy when I told him we had to turn, but he put his trust in me and we made it back safely.  The neighbourhood is quite safe and there are a number of people out at night so there is no problem walking around.

Day 2

Today we awoke to no rain and warm temperatures.  We took a walking tour of the city with a lovely girl named Ellie.  She went to University of 3 years to become a tour guide, so was well versed in her historical knowledge of the city.  We started the tour in Plaza San Martin which is where the second settlement monument of the city is located called the English Tower.  Opposite the monument was a tribute to all the Argentinian solders who died during the Falkland Island War.  We then jumped on the subway to Plaza De Mayo (Main Plaza), where the Cathedral Y Cabildo and the building where the President works.  There were numerous monuments and beautiful architecture through out the city.  We then jumped on a bus to la Boca where the famous painted houses are located, at Caminito.  This is the area where the Tango was born.  It was originally the dance of the poor until it caught on in Italy and then the wealthy began to take interest.  Today this neighbourhood is not too safe and it is where the poorest of people live.  Argentina does have social programs for its poor and there doesn't appear to be too many homeless living on the streets.  We ended up at the famous Recoleta Cemetery where Eva Paron is buried.  Even today people leave flowers at the grave.

It wasn't too hot so we decided to walk part of the way back to the apartment, along the way we treated ourselves to B.A.'s famous ice cream.

Later we went to our first of many Wine Tasting events.  It was located in our neighbourhood and our instructions told us to ring the bell at the black door.  It worked, we were taken up the a second floor loft with a table for 12.  The other guests were a mix of Americans, Australians, UK, and Wales.  Our host was also from the UK but had lived in B.A. for the past 5 years.  Cara was a lot of fun and poured as much wine as you wanted.  We started with a sparkling wine which was wonderful, very different from ours called Hom Espumante Sparkling Wine.  I did not care for the white, it smelled very fruity but was very acidic, however was better once you tasted with the food paring.  It was called Las Perdices Torrontes. 

The best part was the 3 reds.  The first one was a 2010 Mairena (named after the wine makers daughter).  It was 100% Bonarda.  These grapes are only grown in Mendoza.  What a pity, this was a wonderful wine, very different from anything I've ever tasted.  The next two were both Malbecs but the first was oaked, 2011 San Gimignano Malbec Roble.  The second was Cariae Finca Denza Guarda. Bill even enjoyed all of the tastings and was asking for seconds.  No heart burn material here.   Much to my dismay, they only ship to the U.S.  However once I am home I have the information to have it shipped I just have to figure out how to get it home from my sisters.  Know anyone driving back from Arizona this spring?  We get two free bottles for every case we order.  Great deal! I only bought two of my favourites but they won't travel well in my back pack so guess we will have to drink them.  Life's tough!




After a great start to the evening, (lots of wine pours) we sauntered down the street to one of the recommended restaurants to see if we could get a table without a reservations.  We were early it was only 8:30 so we were lucky and only had to wait about 10 min.  In the mean time they served you a sparkling wine while you waited.  Just what we needed.

When we opened the menu the list of red wines was pages and pages, so I asked the waiter to pick one for us.  Boy did he pick one he even asked Bill to write on the bottle as they kept them on display.  Bill was game ( apparently too much wine does this to him) so he wrote his message.  He didn't realise until afterwards he had paid 900 AR for the bottle.  It was very good wine but I think he almost had a heart attack when the bill came, oh well that's what vacations and birthdays are for, right Honey!  By the way the exchange on that is $125 US!!!  Good thing we got the blue exchange rate today.  Great way to start our vacation. 

Cheers!