Surfing is amazing. We left early so that we could travel our wonderful dirt goat trail over to Sante Teresa and find our surf shop Adrenalina. Directions were a little sketchy but we eventually found it. There has been no rain here for about 3 weeks so the roads are extremely dusty, narrow and very busy. Santa Teresa has 29 different surf shops and 90 restaurants. Definitely a surfers paradise. We were a bit early so after we checked in we grabbed some water and headed down to the beach. There were many surfers and we were a bit worried about crashing into people. When we went back to Lolo's he informed us that we would be going to a different beach about 5 min down the road. We loaded up the boards and headed out.The beach we went to was incredible. The tide was going out and the sand was amazing and there were not too many people there. Lolo hired a local to watch our vehicle and our belongings and he told us just to leave the car open.
He started us off with some basic safety instruction on on the water, as in where the rocks were and how the current worked. We had to pick a land mark on the beach other than a tree (because they all looked the same) so we chose a t-pee which had been made out of driftwood as our landmark. He then showed us how to go from lying on your surf board to standing. Once we had done this a couple of times he checked our direction on the board by given us a push to see which foot we stepped with. We were all in the correct position. Except I was opposite to the way that I wake surf which I found odd but he assured me I was the right way. We picked up our boards and headed down to the beach. We strapped our leash on and he checked it to make sure it was tight enough. He then showed us how to carry our boards into the water and through the surf.
Away we went. Thank God we had rash guards, not only did they keep the sand from rubbing from the board, they also kept your bathing suit top on. Surfing is alot of fun, but also alot of work. We started out with baby waves. Just enough white water to get you going. Lolo held he board as you got on and then timed the wave, told you when to paddle and gave you a shove to get you going. Serena was able to get up on her board without too many problems and ride the surf. It took Alex and I a few tries but we both managed to make it up a few times and ride the waves. Bill is a sinker, and struggled to get his board to float him on the small waves. By the end of the two hours Serena was doing very well and the rest of us were exhausted. 
We took Lolo back to his office and dropped off two boards and picked up two boogy boards instead. Lolo had recommended a place to have lunch, which we found and had wonderful fish tacos and majitoes. We then headed back to the beach to try it on our own and watch the sunset. Alex was content to read on the beach, Serena went for a few more rides and Bill took the boogy board out to the big waves to see what they were like. However he went by himself (breaking rule #1) and didn't tell us that was what he was doing. He is not a strong swimmer so when I saw he was past the surf break and not coming back I got a little nervous to say the least. There were more surfers by this time so one of them went to check on him for me. As it turned out he was fine and made it back safely. I told him it was a good thing his life insurance was paid up. They all thought it was funny, however I failed to see the humour in it.
The sunset was as spectacular as they had told us it would be. We sat and enjoyed the beach until the sun went down and then packed up and took the boards back. By the time we were leaving the surf shop it was pitch black and the traffic of cars, people, bicycles, dogs and delivery trucks was crazy. We managed to manuver around all of this and make it to our turn off to Cabuya. Travelling our famous dirt road in the dark was and adventure in itself. However there were other vehicles on the road so we were not alone. 25 minutes later we were back and the house safe and sound.
No comments:
Post a Comment