CUZCO, PERU

We travelled from Santiago to Lima and then up to Cuzco, arriving at about 1:30 local time.  Our new Hostel Amaru is very charming.  The rooms all surround a beautiful courtyard with a view of the mountain sides that surround the city.

We went for a walk this afternoon to check out our new surroundings.  This city is very different from anywhere else we have been.  Everything is made of stone at street level and each place blends into the next.  In order to find out what is inside you have to go through the doorway and in most cases you can find very nice places.  Each entry way is very tiny at the street but opens up into amazing spaces behind.

This is a typical street in Cuzco, our hostel is located half way up he hill.  The tiny raised rock on the right is the sidewalk, just big enough for 1 person to walk on.  If someone is coming in the opposite direction you both have to turn sideways to get by.  The cars and delivery vehicles drive down the middle.  At night when there are a lot of people on the street sometimes you have to duck in to a door way to let someone by.  If it is tight the cars honk to let you know to squeeze over.

 The main square is located in the centre of the city.  The buildings around the square are magnificent.  They are mostly churches and museums. The larger more elaborate buildings take years and years to complete and employ hundreds of people.

This rock work is typical of the Inca buildings.  Each rock is strategically place with no mortar.  These buildings have withstood many earthquakes over the years and have barely shifted at all.  Quite amazing.

 The second day we were in Cuzco, it was getting a little easier to breathe so we decided to go for a walk up to an archaeological site located just above the city called Saqsaywaman (pronounced sexy woman).  So we packed our day bag and set off walking up and up and up.

 At the bottom of this last climb we met a local fellow that spoke some English.  He told us the site was located at the top, but then told us about two additional sites we could see by horse back if we were interested.  We could also get close enough to Saqsaywaman to see it without paying the entrance fee.  So we decided to take him up on his offer and set out to climb the last segment.

As we ascended in altitude breathing became more difficult.  Our new friend picked some mint that was growing in the wild, told us to rub it between our palms and then inhale the aroma.  It was like menthol and was suppose to open up your airways in order to breathe easier.  At this point we were game to try anything.  Not sure if it actually worked or was just a mental thing but it did seem to make it easier to breathe.






 The first site we came to was the Temple of the moon.  It was located in this very quite valley, with a small creek running through.  We were the only people around so it was very tranquil and beautiful. 

We entered the Temple through the small entrance located above the steps in the above picture.  The Inca's believe in three levels of life.  The past, present and future.  Each of these levels is represented by an animal. The past is represented by a snake, and on the entrance to the cave this snake was carved into the rock at the bottom leading into the cave. The next level is a puma which was carved about half way up leading out and the future was represented by the condor which was carved into the floor as you were leaving.  At the end of the temple was an large flat stone which was used as an alter to make offerings to the God.  Located above this stone was a small hole in the top of the cave which lined up with the summer and winter solstice moons.  As the moonlight moved over the hole during these two times it would directly shine on the alter.  It was very interesting to see and hear about from this local fellow.

 We mounted our horses and rode for another 20 minutes or so and came to another site of a series of caves.  Some were very small but others were large enough we could walk through them.  Each cave had small in caves carved into the walls where the Inca's used to keep there idols and offerings.  It was amazing to see all the different passage ways through what looked like a large rocky hill.

At this point we were overlooking the city of Cuzco with Saqsaywaman located about halfway down on the right.  We jumped back on the horses and rode them down to just above Saqsaywaman.  Our guide then told us that if we walked down the road a ways there was a path we could take back to where we started.  If were were questioned by any one we were to tell them we just wanted to go through the site to get back to town.  If we were lucky we could get some pictures of the site without paying the entrance fee.

We past this lady on our way down carrying her load from the fields to market.  The Inca people are very small, but extremely strong and do everything manually.

As we entered the path the security guard asked if we had our entrance fee.  I explained we just wanted to walk through to get back to Cuzco.  After a few moments of him speaking Spanish and me speaking English and not understanding one another I think he just gave up and let us pass.  By this point it had started to rain  so we just walked back down the hill and didn't try to enter the site as he was standing on the top of the hill watching us.

When we arrived at the entrance of the site there was a taxi, so we negotiated a price and got a ride back into town to the main square.

We thought this was a good start to train for the Inca trail.  Little did we know at the time that this climb was nothing compared to what was ahead.

SANTIAGO, CHILE

 Our bus ride from Valparaiso was not so bad.  It was only about 2 hours and was on time.  We arrived at our hostel about 3:00pm and found it to be quite nice.  The pool was a little sketchy so I only dangled my feet in.  Our host was very helpful, he gave us a map of the area, instructions on how to use the extensive subway system and suggestions on where to eat.  We set off to explore the area and find some water and beer.  It was very hot so we asked a young girl where we could eat and have a beer.  With a bit of sign language and pointing down the street we found a nice place to eat.  It was too late by then to venture too far so we just hung out around the pool, caught up on some blogging and e-mails and studied the subway map because in order to take the tour we wanted the next day we would have to take the subway.  This was a new adventure and we had chickened out in Bunoes Aries but the kid assured us it was very easy to use.  We had to switch lines in order to get where we needed to go.

The tour company we had chosen was called Spicy Chile.  It is a free walking tour based on tips.  We were going to tour the traditional food markets, the original train stations and the fish market.  The subway in Santiago is amazing.  It is very well marked and as long as you know where you are going you make it in record time.  It was very clean and we felt safe the entire time.  I think it cost us around $1 each.  The tour was very interesting and the fresh fruit and veggies were to die for.

The corn was huge, I now know where they get the kernels to make the roasted corn they serve for snacks.  The strawberries were everywhere as well as raspberries, blueberries and avocados.  They also sold cilantro and other spices.  The first market we went into was the very traditional market and was the biggest and the busiest of them all.  The next two were more modern, however the prices were higher and there were very few locals around.  These markets had been open since 3am but were still very busy.  Our guide told us that most of the restaurants in town purchase their food here.  There was also a flower market, but it was not as impressive as the one we saw in Bangkok. 

The fish market surprised me.  It was mainly restaurants with a few stalls set up to sell fish.  Each restaurant was out front trying to convince you to come inside to eat.  We had eaten scallops a couple of nights before and could not figure out the extra piece that was attached to the scallop as we know it.  I saw it in the market and asked one of the ladies about it and she described it as the tongue of the scallop.  I did not like the texture so was not surprised to find out it was the tongue.  Glad we don't get that part back home as it is not something I will eat again.  We also tasted a traditional drink called the Motte.  It consisted of cooked grain in the bottom of the cup and then they added peach juice and canned peaches.

The train station was an impressive old building that was not in active use as the trains no longer run in Chile due to the many earthquakes they have.  The building is now used for special events and a few restaurants.

After the tour finished we walked about 10 blocks to the highest point in Santiago called San Crisobal hill.  There used to be a gondola up to the top, however it has not been in use for a number of years.  Now they run a free bus up and down.  The view was pretty cool and we were lucky it was not too smoggy that day so we could see the entire valley.  

We decided to get on the subway before it was rush hour and just chill by our pool again before dinner.  Our flight out to Peru is at 7:30am so we have to be up by 4:15.

   

VALPARAISO DAY 2

THE WALKING TOUR

Valparaiso is the city of mural art.  It is absolutely every where and it is really amazing art work.  The piece above was right outside our B&B.  We did a lot of walking today but the sights and views were amazing.  We started off by walking straight up and I mean straight up to about to the halfway point which was a flat road by Valparaiso standards.  We walked along in a complete semi circle around the ridge which provide spectacular views of the harbour and the city below.

The murals were every where you looked, up, down, sideways.  Everyone was different and most likely told it's own story.  All we had was a map so we didn't get any history of the pictures.

Once we finished the upper circle we headed out again only down this time.  Down many many stairs.  When we were about half way down we decided we needed something to eat.  We stopped at a local restaurant and tried out our very limited Spanish.  We do know how to say fish (Piscado) in Spanish so that's about as far as we got because there was no menu, the waiter just recited what was available.  It was a surprise meal.  Very Very good.  We started with a salad and then ended up with a main of rice and tuna steak, with a pineapple drink and a Carmel crepe for desert.  Not bad for not knowing the language!  We then continued on our way to the original area of the murals.

I'm not sure when these were completed but they have not been maintained over the years, which is kind of sad.  The streets were very narrow and wndy but the murals were still very amazing seeing they were as old as I think they were.  The houses were very run down and some were abandoned.

Very Very cool.  When it rains the water just runs down this area, yet it is still very amazing.

When we reached the bottom we took one of 5 original asensors in the city.  This particular one was built in 1902 and is still in operation.  We paid 500AR for two of us to ride up to the top.  Well worth the money!

Because the next level we climbed and climbed and climbed.  I kept telling Bill it was good training for Machu Picchu. 

We were trying to spend another day here to see if we could make it to Vina Del Mar which is the city just north of here.  It is suppose to have beautiful beaches, but I could not cancel our night in Santiago. 

As it turned out we woke up this morning to a blanket of fog and mist so a day at the beach would not have been too enjoyable.  So we had breakfast and our host at our B&B drove us to the bus station to catch the bus to Santiago.  It's suppose to be a 2 hour bus ride so lets hope they are right.

Valparaiso was an interesting city full of great food, wine and artwork.  It is also a cruise port, so if you ever get the chance at least spend the day walking though the city, you won't be disappointed.  We met a couple of kids at the bus stations this morning who were on our bus from Mendoza and they had taken the time to go to Vina Del Mar, in their opinion it was just another big city.  So in hind sight I guess it was meant to be we didn't make it up there.  Santiago is a very big city, very warm, but found a good bottle of wine to enjoy and a great little Peruvian restaurant.  Life is good and the bus ride was only 2 hours long.  Taxi driver was entertaining and informative and the hostel is clean and quiet.  Tomorrow we are going to ride the subway for the first time and go on a walking city tour.  The history is incredible here.

Chow Chow

VALPARASIO, CHILE

Day 1

Our first day here we hired a private tour guide named Michael the German Pirate.  During our first stop where he was showing us the difference between the upper class and lower class society he was stopped by the Police through a check stop.  He did not have his driver's licence.  This cost us about 2 hours in time and I'm sure a big fine for him.  Needless to say a bit of a damper on our tour.  Once his girl friend dropped his licence off to him we were on our way.

Our first stop was a vacation stop for typical Chileans.  It was quite quiet because it is the end of their summer season.  The water was absolutely freezing yet there were still a few people brave enough to enter the water.  The currents were also very strong, but they had a life guard on duty.

We also stopped at a fishing village but did not go into to it because we were short on time.  He then took us to a friend of his who was 86 years old and had a private museum collection.  This old guy was amazing.  He was a jack of all trades, he designed rail engines, planes, archaeology's digs, geology finds, astronomy and navy boats.  He had a private collection of many different things in a separate building located on his property.  He had constructed model navel ships with running engines and propellers, a train engine, had an impressive gun collection from the 1900's, models of birds, a baby mummy, and numerous other things.  He was a very interesting old guy and you could have spent all afternoon discussing things with him.  He simply opened his home to us to view.

 Next stop was a typical Chilean lunch with the locals.  We had a beer and an empanada.  These empanada's were again very different from any others we have had.  They were huge a meal by themselves.  The ladies were cooking up a storm in a very regular kitchen and it was very busy with local people out for Sunday lunch.

The Empanadas were keeping warm.  They were filled with ground beef, a special sauce, boiled egg and olives.  This is a typical filling however each sauce and each pastry is very different.

We then hit two different wineries after lunch.  One very big corporate type which is well known in the area and one smaller one.  The corporate one called casas del Bosque charged us $30 to taste 5 wines each.  No large pours here.  And in my opinion none of the wine was worth the money they were charging.  Beautiful setting but not very impressive.  The second winery was smaller, but none of their production was done in the facility.  We learnt a little bit more about making sparkling wine but again nothing too impressive.  So far we have had the best wine at dinner called Carmenra from Concha y Toro. 

On the way home Michael showed us the neighbourhoods from the top of the hill to the harbour.  When the city was originally founded all of the development was down by the water.  As it expanded the rich stayed down low and the poor moved higher up the mountain.  As it stands today the very poorest of people have the best views of the harbour.  In fact the new prison is built at the very top and has the most spectacular view of all.  Even though their windows are small and have bars on them.  Go figure, very different from home where the better the view the bigger the price tag.

It was a very long day, but we saw things and areas off the beaten track, but the wines in Mendoza still rock my boat.

Cheers

 

THE BUS RIDE OVER THE ANDES MOUNTAINS

MENDOZA TO VALPARAISO CHILE

The bus from Mendoza to Valparaiso was an amazing ride.  One we will not forget for a long time.  There is nothing like this at home.  Our mountain highways are like freeways compared to this.  The Andes mountains are very different from the Rockies.  There is very little vegetation, just sheer rock from top to bottom.  The ride from Mendoza to the border was similar to our Rockies minus the forest.

 There is a large reservoir of water which they use to irrigate all the vineyards with in the valley and a few ski hills as we reached the top.  Along the highway there is an old abandon rail line and a couple of small remote resorts that they white water raft from. 




The border crossing was definitely a drag.  It took 3 hours to get through.  There is bus after bus after bus waiting in line.  As you get closer you get off the bus and and walk through immigration.  One line up to get out of Argentina and another line to get into Chile.  As you are doing this your luggage is taken off the bus and the dogs go through it.  We made it through the lines ok but of course Bill's backpack was chosen to be searched.  We had also made the mistake of taking fruit onto the bus with us to eat.  Luckily we had declared it properly.  They took it away as well as my dried apricots and then continued to ask if we had fruit.  Bill finally opened his bag and removed the olives, olive paste and Carmel sauce we had purchased and they seemed to be satisfied.  They then asked what his name was and looked at his declaration which was filled out correctly (yes we declared the fruit, thank God) and they allowed him to line up and have our day bags scanned.  We finally were allowed back onto the bus and were then stopped again to do a head count which was  compared to the roster on the bus.  I think their main concern was fruit entering the country, could have cared less about drugs or weapons.  An experience to say the least. 



Then came the decent down the other side.  They have huge snow and mud slides during the winter months so they have constructed huge tunnels in various locations along the way.  They are very narrow and when two buses or large semi transport trucks pass one another it is rather tight.

 There are 28 switch backs from the top to the bottom with no space in between! One right after the other.  They are improving the highway so they only allow traffic to flow in one direction every two hours.  Needless to say the traffic was a little backed up.  However everyone was crawling down this section with the buses and transport trucks barely making it around each curve.  Good thing I'm not afraid of heights. 

 The picture on the rights shows three switch backs, we are on the bottom, the ridge in the middle is another and the truck on the top is on the third one.  This is what it is like down all 28 curves.  It was pretty amazing.  Good thing it was one way traffic or I might have had a heart attack.

 When we started out we thought the trip would take about 8 hours from start to finish, however with the delay at the border and the amount of traffic it took more like 12.  So by the time we arrived in Valparaiso it was 10:30 at night.  It had been a very long day, but worth it just to experience the road and the border crossing.  However having said that, I can cross that off my bucket list and have decided flying is more my style.  We have to make one more short bus trip to Santiago in a few days, but it should only be about 2 hours.  I will let you know how that goes later.

Cheers